Neil Perry, sometimes called the father of Modern Australian cooking, opened Rockpool the same year that Sydney Seafood School was launched, 1989, when Australia’s love affair with food was in its infancy. What’s become known as ‘Australian’ cuisine draws influences from all around the world, as does Neil when he prepares simple dishes, such as this tagine, at home.

One of the most distinctive elements of Moroccan cooking, ‘tagine’ refers to both the cooking pot and the dish prepared in it, a slow-cooked braise or stew.

Lemons preserved in salt are a delicious Moroccan ingredient, rinse them, discard the flesh and pith and use only the skin.

Chermoula is a spicy herb paste often used for marinating seafood. The recipe here makes a little more than you’ll need for this dish, but it keeps, refrigerated, for up to 5 days and is delicious as a sauce for any seafood or meat; if you make it ahead of time, refrigerate until ready to use.